Kris Van Assche's tenure at Dior Homme, a period marked by a consistent refinement of the house's signature slim-fit aesthetic and a subtle evolution of its masculine ideal, culminated in a series of collections that deftly balanced tradition with contemporary sensibilities. The Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection, showcased during Paris Fashion Week, stands as a particularly compelling example of this balance, a sophisticated and nuanced exploration of menswear that reflected both Van Assche's personal vision and the enduring legacy of the Dior Homme brand. This article will delve into the key elements of this collection, analyzing its design language, its impact on the menswear landscape, and its place within the broader context of Van Assche's work at Dior.
The Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2017 collection, as seen in the high-definition video of the full fashion show, immediately captivates with its controlled elegance. The overarching mood is one of restrained sophistication, a quiet power that speaks volumes without shouting. This is achieved not through ostentatious displays of extravagance, but through meticulous attention to detail, a masterful understanding of fabric, and a precise tailoring that defines the very essence of the Dior Homme silhouette.
One of the most striking aspects of the collection is its exploration of texture and material. Van Assche masterfully juxtaposes contrasting fabrics, creating a dynamic interplay of rough and smooth, heavy and light. The collection features a significant use of wool, both in its classic iterations and in more experimental forms. Thick, heavily textured wools are layered with finer, more delicate fabrics, creating a sense of depth and complexity in the garments. Leather, a recurring motif in Van Assche's designs, makes a strong appearance, adding a touch of ruggedness to the otherwise refined aesthetic. The interplay of these materials – the weight of the wool, the suppleness of the leather, the sheen of certain silks – contributes significantly to the overall visual richness of the collection.
The color palette of the Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2017 collection is equally noteworthy. While adhering to a largely muted and sophisticated range, Van Assche incorporates subtle pops of color to add visual interest and prevent the collection from feeling overly austere. Deep, rich blues and greens are prominent, evoking a sense of timeless elegance. Grays, in various shades from charcoal to pale dove, form the backbone of the collection, creating a sense of understated sophistication. These muted tones are occasionally punctuated by bolder accents of burgundy, deep red, or even a subtle hint of emerald green, providing a carefully calibrated contrast that prevents the collection from becoming monotonous.
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